In 2005, we had Qumran on the schedule but we didn't make it there. In 2007 we had Qumran on the schedule but we didn't make it there. We finally made it today.
What is Qumran? Qumran is the place where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered. The site has been excavated and the ruins tell us about the life of the Yachad community, who composed the scrolls and hid them away for nearly 2000 years.
The Yachad community was a monastic group of Jews who had fled to the desert to escape the corruption of Jerusalem and lead a life of simplicity and ritual purity. According to the scrolls and corroborated by the archaeology, the community was highly structured, with men entering the ritual bath twice a day, eating communal meals in silence, and building the infrastrucure required for life under these difficult conditions.
After hearing the story of the people who wrote the scrolls, who lived there from approximately 10 BCE to 70 CE, Muki recounted for us the story of the discovery of the scrolls, which were found by chance in 1947. How lucky we are that the scrolls were discovered...and that we finally made it to the site of the discovery.
A Group Picture at Masada
View of the Old City
This photo faces to the northwest. The two big domes in the foreground are the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
At the Western Wall
The Temple Mount
You Have Mail, God
At the Conregational Meeting on February 10, we collected notes to be placed in the Western Wall. We finally arrived at the Wall this afternoon. Before we were given about half an hour of free time at the wall, I took out the bag that held all of the notes. I warned participants how scornful it is to unfold the notes and read them, then I held open the bag and each person took out two or three to insert into the crevices of the wall.
Prior to that, I sat down with 11-year-old Naomi and 10-year-old Elizabeth and we wrote notes of our own so we would be prepared when we got to the Wall.
So, Temple Emeth members, rest assured that your notes have arrived. And to the Holy One Blessed be God: please check your inbox.
Prior to that, I sat down with 11-year-old Naomi and 10-year-old Elizabeth and we wrote notes of our own so we would be prepared when we got to the Wall.
So, Temple Emeth members, rest assured that your notes have arrived. And to the Holy One Blessed be God: please check your inbox.
Everything in Jerusalem is Complicated
Our morning in Jerusalem started with the history of Christianity in Jerusalem. The strongest presence in the Old City and in the country is the Greek Orthodox Church. Their symbol, a T interlocked with an O, can be found in numerous places in the Christian Quarter of the Old City. There is also a Greek Catholic and an Armenian Orthodox Church. These three denominations--along with Franciscan Roman Catholics and others--share the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, but they do not get along at all, except when they are forced to. Case in point... they cannot agree on who gets to clean the first stair of a staircase that ascends from the courtyard in front of the church.
Later in the day, Muki brought us to a lookout on top of a public roof in the Old City in Jerusalem. In the U.S., there is no such thing as a public basement or a public roof, but Jerusalem has both.
As Muki put it, "The Status Quo in Jerusalem in Holy." Everything is complicated here.
Later in the day, Muki brought us to a lookout on top of a public roof in the Old City in Jerusalem. In the U.S., there is no such thing as a public basement or a public roof, but Jerusalem has both.
As Muki put it, "The Status Quo in Jerusalem in Holy." Everything is complicated here.
Our 1st Group Photo
An Artist in Tzfat
As he described the mystical influence on his art, he even led us in a few meditations along the way.
The Theater in Caesarea
Muki deputized us as Talmudic rabbis and led us in a discussion on whether Jews at the time should have been permitted to attend the gladiator fights that would have taken place in the theater. Then, like now, one has to make difficult decisions in order to stay true to one's self in a majority culture.
Akko
Shabbat Morning in Nahariya
On Saturday morning we drove about 45 minutes north to Nahariya. Our relationship with this congregation goes back several years as they are part of our Federation's partnership 2000 program.
At the Shabbat service at the Emet v'Shalom Reform Congregation, we were asked to lead the Torah service. Different members of our group led singing, opened the ark, lifted the Torah and read Haftarah.
Following the service, we were treated to another communal meal. Before we left, Naomi made a presentation of tzedakah that had been donated by her fifth grade class at Temple Emeth.
In both Or Chadash and Emet v'Shalom, we learned how Reform congregations are a small minority that get no help from the government, but nonetheless strive for acceptance and the chance to introduce Israelis to a liberal, welcoming form of Judaism.
At the Shabbat service at the Emet v'Shalom Reform Congregation, we were asked to lead the Torah service. Different members of our group led singing, opened the ark, lifted the Torah and read Haftarah.
Following the service, we were treated to another communal meal. Before we left, Naomi made a presentation of tzedakah that had been donated by her fifth grade class at Temple Emeth.
In both Or Chadash and Emet v'Shalom, we learned how Reform congregations are a small minority that get no help from the government, but nonetheless strive for acceptance and the chance to introduce Israelis to a liberal, welcoming form of Judaism.
Shabbat Evening in Haifa
Our Friday night services were at Congregation Or Chadash in Haifa. We gathered in advance of the service so the rabbi could welcome us and tell us a little about the congregation. The services were beautiful. Rabbi Nof played guitar and a very talented cantorial soloist led the singing. We had a locally dinner there as well.
At the end of the evening we had 2 special treats. First we each received 4 CD's of music produced by the congregation. Then we got to see the most beautiful bomb shelter around. In the 2006 war with Lebanon, Or Chadash became a bomb-proof day care center for those who had no where else to bring their children. On very short notice the shelter was renovated with paintings of doves, shofars and even painted-on stained glass windows. It was so inspiring to hear how this congregation responded in a time of crisis.
At the end of the evening we had 2 special treats. First we each received 4 CD's of music produced by the congregation. Then we got to see the most beautiful bomb shelter around. In the 2006 war with Lebanon, Or Chadash became a bomb-proof day care center for those who had no where else to bring their children. On very short notice the shelter was renovated with paintings of doves, shofars and even painted-on stained glass windows. It was so inspiring to hear how this congregation responded in a time of crisis.
Adventures in Hummus
Hummus, for those who don't know, is a chickpea spread. It is a middle Eastern specialty and I've had some great hummus so far
At the Magadna restaurant in Tel Aviv, the hummus was a perfect introduction to our shish kabob entree. During lunch on our own in the market in Tel Aviv, our guide Muki brought me to his favorite lunch place in that area. I ordered sabicha which is hummus along with eggplant, potato and hard boiled egg. And Saturday night for dinner at Jacko, a fish restaurant in Haifa, we had a wide variety of appetizer salads including hummus.
In most cases, including those above hummus is served with fresh pita bread.
Hummus is catching on in the US, but it has yet to capture the essence of the original.
At the Magadna restaurant in Tel Aviv, the hummus was a perfect introduction to our shish kabob entree. During lunch on our own in the market in Tel Aviv, our guide Muki brought me to his favorite lunch place in that area. I ordered sabicha which is hummus along with eggplant, potato and hard boiled egg. And Saturday night for dinner at Jacko, a fish restaurant in Haifa, we had a wide variety of appetizer salads including hummus.
In most cases, including those above hummus is served with fresh pita bread.
Hummus is catching on in the US, but it has yet to capture the essence of the original.
"Local" Soldiers
As we departed Independence Hall, we saw about 50 soldiers waiting to go in as part of their orientation. We struck up a conversation with a few of them and learned that three we're from the US and one from Canada. One was from Tenafly and his brother graduated with Julie and Stephen's elder daughter.
It really is a small Jewish world.
It really is a small Jewish world.
A house that tells two stories
On Friday morning we checked out of the hotel on Tel Aviv and went to Israel's Independence Hall. It wasn't actually called that until around 1978. On May 14, 1948 and for thirty years beyond that it was simply an art museum.
The declaration ceremony was prepared on only 36 hours notice, so all the decorations and chairs were borrowed for the occasion and then promptly returned. The name Independence Hall give the building national prominence.
But before it was even an art museum it was the home of Meir Dizengoff, who was the first Mayor of Tel Aviv. He built his house on the very spot where 66 families gathered in 1909 to draw lots for the first 66 plots of land (really sand dunes) and establish the settlement that would eventually become Tel Aviv. The house was almost like a city hall or foreign ministry, hosting dignitaries such as General Allenby and Albert Einstein.
So by entering this building, we became a part of both the development of the city and the founding of the state.
The declaration ceremony was prepared on only 36 hours notice, so all the decorations and chairs were borrowed for the occasion and then promptly returned. The name Independence Hall give the building national prominence.
But before it was even an art museum it was the home of Meir Dizengoff, who was the first Mayor of Tel Aviv. He built his house on the very spot where 66 families gathered in 1909 to draw lots for the first 66 plots of land (really sand dunes) and establish the settlement that would eventually become Tel Aviv. The house was almost like a city hall or foreign ministry, hosting dignitaries such as General Allenby and Albert Einstein.
So by entering this building, we became a part of both the development of the city and the founding of the state.
Yummy Dinner
Our welcome dinner was at an historic Tel Aviv restaurant called Maganda. It was traditional Middle Eastern fare, with fresh pita, delicious hummus and sizzling beef and chicken shish kabob. Dessert was served with nana tea. Nana is fresh spearmint leaves that are so flavorful that many Israelis don't even bother to add the teabag.
On the walk back from the restaurant, several people opted to walk along the beach. After all, Tel Aviv sits on the Mediterranean Sea.
On the walk back from the restaurant, several people opted to walk along the beach. After all, Tel Aviv sits on the Mediterranean Sea.
Safe Arrival
Out flight from Newark to Tel Aviv was smooth and uneventful. That's always good news on a trans-Atlantic flight.
As we boarded the bus to go from the airport to our hotel, the sun was setting and a full moon was rising. This means that Purim is just a month away.
On our drive to Tel Aviv, we learned that, though the city was founded in 1909, the name "Tel Aviv" wasn't chosen until two years later, so this year marks the centenary of the name.
Why Tel Aviv? The name literally means the historic mound of spring. Really it is in homage to the founder of modern Zionism, Theodor Herzl. Herzl's most famous work was Der Judenstaat (The State of the Jews); his next most famous work was Altneuland (Old-New Land) which was translated as Tel Aviv.
As we boarded the bus to go from the airport to our hotel, the sun was setting and a full moon was rising. This means that Purim is just a month away.
On our drive to Tel Aviv, we learned that, though the city was founded in 1909, the name "Tel Aviv" wasn't chosen until two years later, so this year marks the centenary of the name.
Why Tel Aviv? The name literally means the historic mound of spring. Really it is in homage to the founder of modern Zionism, Theodor Herzl. Herzl's most famous work was Der Judenstaat (The State of the Jews); his next most famous work was Altneuland (Old-New Land) which was translated as Tel Aviv.
It Begins
Everyone has arrived at the gate and we are boarding the plane. Our next post will be from Tel Aviv!
Sent from my iPhone
Better Early than Late
They recommend arriving at the airport at least two hours in advance. I shared a cab with trip participants David and Stewart and we arrived at Newark Liberty about three hours early.
We needed special attention at the ticket counter because we were booked as part of a group. Then we had to be patient because of the long line at security.
Now we're at the gate and--no surprise--we're the first of our group to get here. Who will be next? And who will be last?
Staying Connected
Israel is known for being at the cutting edge of technology. For an American tourist, technology is not so cheap. As an iPhone user, I could sign up for an international plan and then pay "only" $1.99 a minute for phone calls. Instead I elected to rent an Israeli cell phone for 39 cents a minute outgoing, with incoming calls for free. So not only will I not be using my iPhone for calls, I'm even turning off my voicemail capability, as receiving a voice mail could cost me $2.50.
I will have my iPhone with me so that I can use the internet and send personal email to my family. It will probably also be the main way that I update this blog. Those also required special international plans, but I found them more affordable.
I will have my iPhone with me so that I can use the internet and send personal email to my family. It will probably also be the main way that I update this blog. Those also required special international plans, but I found them more affordable.
Meet Us: Michelle and Robert
Michelle and Robert are joining our trip through word of mouth. This means they are braver than the rest of us, choosing to join a trip where they don't yet know anybody. I think that by Shabbat they will feel like family. Here's what they write about themselves...
We are a married couple from Sudbury, MA. This is our first trip to Israel. We belong to Beth El in Sudbury, MA, a reform congregation. We thank you for the opportunity to join Temple Emeth members on this trip.
We have three kids – one in high school, two in college. They are not going with us on this trip. Our oldest was at U of Haifa studying Hebrew last summer.
We are a married couple from Sudbury, MA. This is our first trip to Israel. We belong to Beth El in Sudbury, MA, a reform congregation. We thank you for the opportunity to join Temple Emeth members on this trip.
We have three kids – one in high school, two in college. They are not going with us on this trip. Our oldest was at U of Haifa studying Hebrew last summer.
What does one bring to Israel?
In addition to the things you would bring on any trip, there are other items that one brings only on a trip to Israel. Here are some of the things I am packing to make sure I get the most out of my experience.
A copy of the Bible--There are times when a particular psalm or other quote will help make the experience of seeing a historical site more meaningful. Mine is a small paperback one in Hebrew and English, and I've brought it on the last two trips. On those trips I even got everyone to sign, kind of like a yearbook.
Notes and Tzedakah--I have a sandwich baggie filled with notes for the Western Wall that we collected at the Congregational Meeting. People were also generous in giving us money to bring for tzedakah. Transporting these items means we are not just travelers but shlichei mitzvah "mitzvah emissaries" which brings extra mazel (luck) on our trip.
Items for Friends--When people hear you are traveling to Israel, they often ask you to bring a little something from the states for them. This is true for our guide, Muki, for whom I am bringing a book; my good friend Paul, for whom I am bringing some CD's; and cantorial student Laura, for whom I am bringing snack food that isn't available in Israel.
A copy of the Bible--There are times when a particular psalm or other quote will help make the experience of seeing a historical site more meaningful. Mine is a small paperback one in Hebrew and English, and I've brought it on the last two trips. On those trips I even got everyone to sign, kind of like a yearbook.
Notes and Tzedakah--I have a sandwich baggie filled with notes for the Western Wall that we collected at the Congregational Meeting. People were also generous in giving us money to bring for tzedakah. Transporting these items means we are not just travelers but shlichei mitzvah "mitzvah emissaries" which brings extra mazel (luck) on our trip.
Items for Friends--When people hear you are traveling to Israel, they often ask you to bring a little something from the states for them. This is true for our guide, Muki, for whom I am bringing a book; my good friend Paul, for whom I am bringing some CD's; and cantorial student Laura, for whom I am bringing snack food that isn't available in Israel.
Receiving Our Blessing
The participants of the Israel Trip are scheduled to receive a gift and a blessing at the special congregational meeting scheduled for this Thursday, February 10. Refreshments will be served at 7:30 and the business part of the meeting will begin at 8:00.
Our gift is going to be a copy of the newly-published prayerbook "Mishkan T'filah for Travelers," which will enable us to say blessings or have a brief service (for example after our visit to the Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial Museum) when it is appropriate.
We will be collecting notes to bring to the Western Wall at this meeting only, so if you would like to send us with a note, please come on February 10.
Our gift is going to be a copy of the newly-published prayerbook "Mishkan T'filah for Travelers," which will enable us to say blessings or have a brief service (for example after our visit to the Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial Museum) when it is appropriate.
We will be collecting notes to bring to the Western Wall at this meeting only, so if you would like to send us with a note, please come on February 10.
Preparing for our Trip
Preparing for a trip to Israel literally takes over a year of planning. We must choose the itinerary, publicize the trip, recruit participants and take care of all kinds of details.
A major part of planning for the trip took place on January 30. All of the participants who were in town gathered were hosted by Micki and Mike, who are participants on the trip. We discussed everything from what to pack to where we would pray to what we needed to know about security. It was also a great chance for us to spend time getting to know one another. Even though everyone in the room was a Temple member, there were people who didn't know everyone.
As we concluded our meeting, excitement was high. If only we could have gone straight to the airport...
A major part of planning for the trip took place on January 30. All of the participants who were in town gathered were hosted by Micki and Mike, who are participants on the trip. We discussed everything from what to pack to where we would pray to what we needed to know about security. It was also a great chance for us to spend time getting to know one another. Even though everyone in the room was a Temple member, there were people who didn't know everyone.
As we concluded our meeting, excitement was high. If only we could have gone straight to the airport...
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