We began the day with a trip to Latrun – the former British fortress that controlled the road to Jerusalem in the War of Independence. Latrun is now the home of the Israeli Armored Vehicle Corps. This was amazing. We saw the history of the Armored Corp, a museum that displayed all the nationalities that have fought to defend Israel over the years. We walked through their memorial site and stopped and acknowledged those who had fallen that date in Israel’s history. And then we walked into the Hall of Tears and I could barely breathe. This magnificent memorial to those who have fallen was intensely moving. I could feel the tears of the mothers, fathers, families and friends mourning. A truly impactful visit.
I was struck many times at how insistent Israel is in acknowledging each person who dies for Israel as the individual they are and not just part of a large anonymous group. It says a lot about the society and the country and the value of each individual to Israel.
Our visits to Ramle and Modi’in were a study of interesting contrasts in two cities. Ramle is a lower-economic level city, with little investment. Modi’in, the city of the future, is the up and coming city of Israel – full of beautiful homes, well maintained and strategically placed parks, schools, and all the other necessities of a small city. (They even have American stores like Ace Hardware and Burger King.) It is fascinating to look at a city’s layout and realize how beloved and valued the children of the community are.
Our final stop was Jaffa Flea Market, a fun stroll and a little haggling. Then a last stroll down the beach to Tel Aviv, a final good bye to an amazing teacher and the trip home. After these five intensive days, I realize I just scratched the surface!
Vicky on Wednesday, February 28
Muki gave me a quick overview of Haifa – the view from the seaport, the Baha’i Gardens, a little history of the town. We then traveled to the archaeological site Megiddo. A very ancient city, the James Michener book “The Source” was based on the multiple layers of cities found here. Interestingly, while Megiddo went through so many layers of civilization, it ceased being a living city about 300 BCE. It was fascinating to look at the development of the city and disappointing not to be able to walk in its water tunnel – another day!
We stopped for lunch in Zichron Yaakov, a lovely town with many artists’ galleries and shops. Our trip then continued with a wonderful hike in the Rothschild Reserve in the Carmel learning about the history of the area and some of its archaeological findings. There is something so peaceful about hiking and learning in Israel.
Vicky on Tuesday, February 27
Our next day we went to Beit Hatusefoth –the Museum of the Diaspora. I had visited here previously and found it fascinating, so we did a shorter but thorough tour of the building. The museum lays out the ideas and reasons that have kept the Jewish people together all these centuries. It was illuminating.
From there we proceeded to the Palmach museum, an unforgettable experience. The Palmach Museum honors those members of the Haganah who underwent extensive military training to defend the Jews of Palestine before 1948 and to fight in the War of Independence. It has a “you are there” approach – you go through each step of belonging to the Palmach with its members, through training, bringing illegal immigrants to Palestine between 1945-48, and then fighting for Israel. It was truly moving.
Part of the Tel Aviv experience is lunch at a sidewalk café. As it was the week before Purim, we enjoyed the parade of pre-Purim costumes worn by young and old. Another essential experience in Tel Aviv is admiring the beautiful handmade crafts and local artwork at the Tuesday Crafts Fair.
From Tel Aviv we traveled to Haifa, where I met a friend for dinner at a wonderful local restaurant and to be ready for our northern adventures the next morning.
From there we proceeded to the Palmach museum, an unforgettable experience. The Palmach Museum honors those members of the Haganah who underwent extensive military training to defend the Jews of Palestine before 1948 and to fight in the War of Independence. It has a “you are there” approach – you go through each step of belonging to the Palmach with its members, through training, bringing illegal immigrants to Palestine between 1945-48, and then fighting for Israel. It was truly moving.
Part of the Tel Aviv experience is lunch at a sidewalk café. As it was the week before Purim, we enjoyed the parade of pre-Purim costumes worn by young and old. Another essential experience in Tel Aviv is admiring the beautiful handmade crafts and local artwork at the Tuesday Crafts Fair.
From Tel Aviv we traveled to Haifa, where I met a friend for dinner at a wonderful local restaurant and to be ready for our northern adventures the next morning.
Vicky on Monday, February 26
Our second day, we visited the Supreme Court of Israel, located in Jerusalem. The relatively new building is constructed with lines and circles throughout – lines for the law and circles for justice. How brilliant that the architect realized the practical application of the law can lead to justice! We were able to sit in one courtroom for a few minutes and follow the proceedings. Unlike US courts, where there is often a jury trial, in Israel all trials are heard by judges.
We left the Supreme Court and proceeded to Mt. Herzl and the grave of Theodore Herzl, the founder of Modern Zionism. We moved on from there to the military cemetery. It is always significant to acknowledge those who have dedicated their lives to Israel. This military cemetery drove home an important lesson – there are so many Jews from all over the world who have come to Israel and work together to create this Jewish society and country. There were monuments acknowledging the sacrifice of so many groups – those who died in the establishment of the state, Jews from different countries who died during WWII fighting the Nazis, as well as victims of terror. The individual attention given to each gravesite and monument was moving. The flowers and other items left by family members were heartbreaking.
After leaving the Military cemetery, we traveled to Tel Aviv. As we left the Jerusalem, Muki commented “say goodbye to Jerusalem” and I felt a pang – “If I forget thee O Jerusalem!” Even after several wonderful days, still twinges leaving our city.
Tel Aviv was bright and vibrant. Muki shared the history of the Neve Tzedek neighborhood – an original section of Tel Aviv that had become run down and is now going through a renewal. It’s a wonderful, warm artistic area with beautiful homes, stylish stores, restaurants and some jazz clubs. The narrow roads give the area a very picturesque look. Later, walking alone to dinner and back through the neighborhood, I could see how alive it is with so many different people.
We left the Supreme Court and proceeded to Mt. Herzl and the grave of Theodore Herzl, the founder of Modern Zionism. We moved on from there to the military cemetery. It is always significant to acknowledge those who have dedicated their lives to Israel. This military cemetery drove home an important lesson – there are so many Jews from all over the world who have come to Israel and work together to create this Jewish society and country. There were monuments acknowledging the sacrifice of so many groups – those who died in the establishment of the state, Jews from different countries who died during WWII fighting the Nazis, as well as victims of terror. The individual attention given to each gravesite and monument was moving. The flowers and other items left by family members were heartbreaking.
After leaving the Military cemetery, we traveled to Tel Aviv. As we left the Jerusalem, Muki commented “say goodbye to Jerusalem” and I felt a pang – “If I forget thee O Jerusalem!” Even after several wonderful days, still twinges leaving our city.
Tel Aviv was bright and vibrant. Muki shared the history of the Neve Tzedek neighborhood – an original section of Tel Aviv that had become run down and is now going through a renewal. It’s a wonderful, warm artistic area with beautiful homes, stylish stores, restaurants and some jazz clubs. The narrow roads give the area a very picturesque look. Later, walking alone to dinner and back through the neighborhood, I could see how alive it is with so many different people.
Vicky on Sunday, February 25
I was fortunate to stay an additional five days to explore and learn more about Israel with our brilliant and talented educator Muki. We spent the first day learning about the Old City of Jerusalem through an intensive and thorough walk exploring the establishment of the city, its development and improvements during biblical times. A highlight was walking through the Canaanite water tunnel close to Hezekiah’s water tunnel, another engineering marvel that is both beautiful and mysterious. Visiting the Herodian mansions, the Davidson Center, seeing the remains of the shops outside the temple, Muki reading the text in Kings that described David looking out on the rooftops of the city, combined to remind me of how strong our connection to Jerusalem is.That evening, I had dinner with a rabbinical student on Emet Refrain Street to discuss teaching at the congregation where I am Executive Director.
A note on Vicky's reflections
As mentioned earlier, one member of the group, Vicky, arranged in advance to stay five extra days in Israel with Muki as her guide and see some of the sites that we couldn't fit onto our group itinerary. She has shared some of her journey in the next few postings.
While, as a congregational rabbi, I tout the advantages of group travel to Israel, I think you will see from Vicky's postings, that there are many advantages to going alone and hiring a guide who can customize the experience.
I envy Vicky's opportunity to travel on her own and I admire her perseverance in pursuing this experience.
One last thing, I mentioned in a much earlier posting that Vicky and Ilene spent part of our free day in Eilat on a hike with Muki. Here is a photo from that trek! Enjoy.
Another Reflection from Judith
One more quick note about our trip to Israel. On Thursday morning, a few of us opted out of the dig at Beit Guvrin, having been there in 2005, and opted to go shopping on Ben Yehuda Street instead. So Elinor, Ilene and I started out from the hotel to walk to Ben Yehuda Street, an easy stroll on a beautiful morning. We had gone only a couple of blocks, perhaps, when I looked across the street and recognized the hotel where I had stayed in 2002. I actually recognized the corner and exclaimed to my friends, "I know where I am--I stayed there in 2002 and the Sheraton is there and there's the SuperSol (grocery store) where we bought lunch on the last day and that's the artist's gallery we went into a couple of times." What a kick to feel so familiar when I was actually 6,000 miles from New Jersey and feeling as much at home as I would walking on Cedar Lane in Teaneck.
If you haven't been to Israel yet, or haven't visited in a number of years, you should consider going. It is safe and wonderful and we should all touch base with our spiritual homeland at some point. I encourage you all to consider a trip soon.
If you haven't been to Israel yet, or haven't visited in a number of years, you should consider going. It is safe and wonderful and we should all touch base with our spiritual homeland at some point. I encourage you all to consider a trip soon.
A Reflection from Ilene
Had an amazing time in Israel. Was even more relaxed this time than the last. Felt and acted more independently by walking alone and exploring Mea Shearim. Liked the fact that it was a more intimate group. Was a really special trip because it included my Rabbi. Special moments were particpating in services at Bet Daniel and Yozma; especially Yozma which included the 1st graders leading part of the service. Loved HUC especially bumping in to Rabbi Gerald Weider who married Vic and I. Thought the desert experiences of "meditation", chevruta study, visit to the Bedouin style tent and hiking with Vicki and Muki were most memorable...as was my morning shopping for rimonim and noshing with my Rabbi. Already thinking and planning (mentally) for the next trip!! Feel closer than ever to Israel..angered by the NY Times writing only about the plight of the Palestinians -- while at the same time recognizing that, it appears, as if the regular "Palestinian on the street" suffers greatly from his government's "leadership". Hoping for Peace and thinking of ways to do my part to help bring it about. Kein yehee ratzon!!
A Reflection from Judith
Like the rabbi, I was struck by the juxtaposition of visiting Yad VaShem on Friday morning and then visiting Kehillat Yozma in Modiin on Friday evening for services. Yad Vashem always leaves me feeling sad, and then amazed. Sad because of the attempted destruction of a proud and ancient people (thank God it has failed time and time again--truly, by all that's logical, we should not exist) and amazed that we are still here at all--and a vibrant and growing community, world-wide.
The service at Kehillat Yozma was joyous and spiritual and the children's enthusiasm was contagious, at least to me. It reminded me of our own music service in a way. There was no dancing in the aisles, but the children with their arms around each other swaying happily and singing loudly really touched me. Here is a Progressive community in Israel proving to all the world that we do exist and that what we Reform Jews do is as authentic and wonderful as what anyone else practices.
I can't wait to go back.
The service at Kehillat Yozma was joyous and spiritual and the children's enthusiasm was contagious, at least to me. It reminded me of our own music service in a way. There was no dancing in the aisles, but the children with their arms around each other swaying happily and singing loudly really touched me. Here is a Progressive community in Israel proving to all the world that we do exist and that what we Reform Jews do is as authentic and wonderful as what anyone else practices.
I can't wait to go back.
Post-Trip Reflections
Now that we've been home for about a month, I have invited participants on the trip to share reflections on what we saw and experienced together. I will post them as they are submitted to me.
A post-trip greeting from Vicky
Shalom Chaverim!I got back Friday and send regards and love from Muki. He really enjoyed our group. He shared with me how easy most of you got through security at the airport – sorry Donna and Rabbi!
During the additional five days, I managed to do another hike in the Carmel and to see a lot of beautiful places in Israel. There is so much more for us to see on the next trip!
I’m sending some photos that I thought you’d enjoy. Please feel free to share yours as well.
Saturday: Our Departure
The drive from Jerusalem to Ben-Gurion International Airport takes about 45 minutes. As always, we ran on time. Muki explained how the security would work when we arrived at the airport. The first stage is to stop our bus at the perimiter and ask about the driver, the guide and the passengers. We soon reached the curb outside our terminal, where we claimed our luggage from under the bus and said goodbye to Moshe.
The next stage is to question every member of the group, starting with me. As it turns out, I was the only person who had my bag go through the special x-ray and then had to report for a hand inspection. The reason? I can't know for sure, but it is probably because I told the screener that I had accepted two gifts, a stuffed toy from my Israeli friend, and a book from the head of our travel agency.
Of the rest of the group, Donna faced the most questions because I told them that she was not a member of the congregation. Clearly they were concerned about a "hanger-on" who joined the group in order to have access to the plane. After speaking to her for a few minutes, they could see she was just a tourist like the rest of us, and we were all approved.
Next we had to get our boarding passes. This was where it was time to say goodbye to Muki. Like any airport, we went through the metal detectors and then go through passport control. I got in line behind one member of the UJA group who had apparently lost his passport and had a replacement one issued by the embassy. My line, therefore, went the slowest of all. Finally, after all the checks we entered the shopping paradise known as Duty Free. That is where I got in line for the last time, to reclaim my VAT tax from the gifts that I had bought.
Our flight boarded and departed on time. This time I stayed in my assigned seat. I had an inside seat, so there was really no reason anyone would want to switch with me. We landed about 30 minutes early in Newark. The Newark ground crew wasn't ready for us, so we had to sit on the plane for those 30 minutes until they would open the door.
We didn't really have a chance to say goodbye at Newark Airport, but that's OK. Part of the joy of taking a Temple trip is knowing that you'll see one another at Temple activities.
I suppose this concludes the blog, but the impact that the trip will have on us will continue. The next trip won't be for a few years, but I hope everyone in the Temple Emeth community will consider joining us. Shalom u'l'hitraot!
The next stage is to question every member of the group, starting with me. As it turns out, I was the only person who had my bag go through the special x-ray and then had to report for a hand inspection. The reason? I can't know for sure, but it is probably because I told the screener that I had accepted two gifts, a stuffed toy from my Israeli friend, and a book from the head of our travel agency.
Of the rest of the group, Donna faced the most questions because I told them that she was not a member of the congregation. Clearly they were concerned about a "hanger-on" who joined the group in order to have access to the plane. After speaking to her for a few minutes, they could see she was just a tourist like the rest of us, and we were all approved.
Next we had to get our boarding passes. This was where it was time to say goodbye to Muki. Like any airport, we went through the metal detectors and then go through passport control. I got in line behind one member of the UJA group who had apparently lost his passport and had a replacement one issued by the embassy. My line, therefore, went the slowest of all. Finally, after all the checks we entered the shopping paradise known as Duty Free. That is where I got in line for the last time, to reclaim my VAT tax from the gifts that I had bought.
Our flight boarded and departed on time. This time I stayed in my assigned seat. I had an inside seat, so there was really no reason anyone would want to switch with me. We landed about 30 minutes early in Newark. The Newark ground crew wasn't ready for us, so we had to sit on the plane for those 30 minutes until they would open the door.
We didn't really have a chance to say goodbye at Newark Airport, but that's OK. Part of the joy of taking a Temple trip is knowing that you'll see one another at Temple activities.
I suppose this concludes the blog, but the impact that the trip will have on us will continue. The next trip won't be for a few years, but I hope everyone in the Temple Emeth community will consider joining us. Shalom u'l'hitraot!
Saturday: Our Farewell Dinner
Before leaving the hotel, we had a session where each of us got to share what our favorite mental snapshot of Israel was. It was clear that, as promised, this had been a life-changing trip for everyone, young and old. A few minutes later, we celebrated Havdallah. Unfortunately, it was too cold to do it outdoors, so we did it in a meeting room of the hotel. Nevertheless, it was our spirit that brought meaning to the service much more than any venue could.
Our last meal together was a festive one, held at a restaurant called Olive and Fish, just around the corner from our hotel. We loaded the bus with all of our luggage and then went to dinner. We were originally seated at the end of the main dining room, but after taking one look at us, the manager offered to move us upstairs to half of the private dining room (separated by a curtain from the other half which was waiting for a group that hadn't arrived yet). I made my final executive decision of the trip and approved the move upstairs.
Though wine wasn't included with our meal, we quickly decided to use our excess shekels to order some. We toasted our fearless guide, Muki, and our driver, Moshe, for never making us fear.
Sometime between the appetizers and the main course CJ threatened to start blowing the whistle that he had been given earlier in the day by a group having a Shabbat children's program at HUC. At that point I decided that it was time for he and I to take a walk. We went across the street to Liberty Bell Park, so named because of its replica of the American Liberty Bell.
We concluded our meal with mint tea and a delicious chilled chocolate mousse cake. We said our goodbyes to Vicky, who had previously arranged to stay an extra five days in Israel, and boarded the bus for Natbag, the Hebrew abbreviation for Ben Gurion Airport.
Our last meal together was a festive one, held at a restaurant called Olive and Fish, just around the corner from our hotel. We loaded the bus with all of our luggage and then went to dinner. We were originally seated at the end of the main dining room, but after taking one look at us, the manager offered to move us upstairs to half of the private dining room (separated by a curtain from the other half which was waiting for a group that hadn't arrived yet). I made my final executive decision of the trip and approved the move upstairs.Though wine wasn't included with our meal, we quickly decided to use our excess shekels to order some. We toasted our fearless guide, Muki, and our driver, Moshe, for never making us fear.
Sometime between the appetizers and the main course CJ threatened to start blowing the whistle that he had been given earlier in the day by a group having a Shabbat children's program at HUC. At that point I decided that it was time for he and I to take a walk. We went across the street to Liberty Bell Park, so named because of its replica of the American Liberty Bell.
We concluded our meal with mint tea and a delicious chilled chocolate mousse cake. We said our goodbyes to Vicky, who had previously arranged to stay an extra five days in Israel, and boarded the bus for Natbag, the Hebrew abbreviation for Ben Gurion Airport.
Saturday: The Rooftops of the Old City
After lunch, Muki took us on a walking tour that brought us to the rooftops of the Old City of Jerusalem. Many rooftops, he explained, are public space, not unlike sidewalks where we live. Our perch was close to the intersection of the four quarters of the Old City: Muslim, Christian, Armenian and Jewish.
We learned about the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and how none of the Christian sects that have shrines in the Sepulchre complex want the others to have the key. So a member of the same Muslim family has been opening and closing the main door for generatoins.
I recalled when I took a rooftop tour about 10 years ago that the Muslim Quarter was distinguishable by its many television antennas. This was not a religious expression, simply a reflection that the Muslim Quarter did not have cable. This time, the antennas were gone, replaced by--you guessed it--satellite dishes.
Sitting on the rooftops gave us a good sense of the relatively small size of the Old City, and that, like with everything else in the Middle East, there are no hard and fast rules. There are Jews living in the Muslim Quarter and Muslims living in the Christian Quarter. There is a mosque in the Christian Quarter, but all of the Reformation churches except Lutherans are excluded from the Old City altogether. Why the Lutherans? Because when the Turks ruled Israel, they had an alliance with the Germans, so a German denomination was allowed in when the rest were excluded.
Following our view from the rooftops, we returned to the hotel for a few hours to nap and pack before our farewell dinner and our trip to the airport.
We learned about the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and how none of the Christian sects that have shrines in the Sepulchre complex want the others to have the key. So a member of the same Muslim family has been opening and closing the main door for generatoins.
I recalled when I took a rooftop tour about 10 years ago that the Muslim Quarter was distinguishable by its many television antennas. This was not a religious expression, simply a reflection that the Muslim Quarter did not have cable. This time, the antennas were gone, replaced by--you guessed it--satellite dishes.
Sitting on the rooftops gave us a good sense of the relatively small size of the Old City, and that, like with everything else in the Middle East, there are no hard and fast rules. There are Jews living in the Muslim Quarter and Muslims living in the Christian Quarter. There is a mosque in the Christian Quarter, but all of the Reformation churches except Lutherans are excluded from the Old City altogether. Why the Lutherans? Because when the Turks ruled Israel, they had an alliance with the Germans, so a German denomination was allowed in when the rest were excluded.
Following our view from the rooftops, we returned to the hotel for a few hours to nap and pack before our farewell dinner and our trip to the airport.
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